Basics: Chicken Stock

Making your own chicken stock (or broth? Is there a difference?) is easy, it saves you money, it takes better than what you can buy, and should be part of any home cook’s bag of tricks.

It doesn’t require a lot of fancy knifework, or specialized gadgets. What making your own stock does require, though, is time. Not so much hands-on time, but simmering time. Today, a grey and rainy New York City Sunday, was just perfect, so that’s exactly what I did. Here’s how.

First, fill a stock pot full of cold water. Add some chicken. You can use a whole chicken, but I bought two large packages today, one of thighs, and one of legs. Both together cost about eleven dollars, and I used half of each, and put the rest away in the fridge for another dinner later in the week.

Next, add a carrot, a stalk of celery, and an onion, all three simply chopped in half. I also added some whole peppercorns, and a bay leaf. You can also add some herbs, tied up together with string; today I didn’t have any, so I just added some dried thyme.

Bring it just to a boil, turn the heat down to simmer, and let it cook for 4-5 hours.

At some point along the way, you’ll get a large amount of foam and nasty looking bits float up the top of the pot — just skim this all off, and let the stock continue to simmer. You may have to do it a second time. As it cooks, it will look like this:

stock almost complete

After about two hours (and that’s probably even too long…), you can remove the chicken, and — with a fork and knive, as it will be *really* hot — you can remove all the meat. Let it cool, and pack it away. Return the bones to the simmering stock.

Once the liquid is reduced by about half, you’re done. Let the stock cool. To speed up the cooling, you can set the pot in a sink filled with cold water and/or ice.

Using a fine mesh strainer, pour the stock into a large bowl. (We don’t have one large enough, so I split it between two.) At this point, you should have a nicely colored, clear, fragrant broth:

stock after straining

I made enough today for three tupperwares full — the large one, I’ll use for a soup later this week; the smaller two, I packed away in the freezer.

stock packed up

Simple to do, and well worth your time. The whole thing probably cost about 5 or 6 bucks to make.

One additional note: It’s important *not* to use salt in your stock. Not only does the stock reduce, which will intensify the salt flavor, but you actually want the stock “salt neutral,” so that depending on what you’re using it for later on, you have flexibility. If you use it for soup, you’ll salt it differently than if you were to make a risotto, or a pan sauce.

Have you made stock? Anything I missed? Any tips you can share?

Published in: on February 22, 2009 at 6:51 pm  Comments (2)  
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Hopping in on the New Year!

Hoppin' JohnHappy 2009! It’s a very common tradition in Low Country southern cooking to enjoy a full bowl of Hoppin’ John on New Years eve to bring in luck for the New Year. According to my mother, who was born and raised in Charleston, South Carolina, the most likely the origins of this dish were from the African slaves. The first time it was written down in a recipe book is believed to be in 1847 By Miss. Sarah Rutledge, the relative of two of the signers of the Declaration of independence, in a cookbook titled The Carolina Housewife.

The reason Hoppin’ John is supposed to bring good luck is that the black eyed peas are thought to represent coins, not unlike a similar Italian New Year tradition of serving lentils. Greens are traditionally served as well, since they are the color of money. In our Florida home however, Hoppin’ John is served more often with stone crab claws (which are in season right now, and one of the best things on earth) or a big shrimp boil. The dish is simple to make. If you want to be hardcore, you can get a bag of the peas and soak them the night before, but Southern cooking is often riddled with mixing handmade with quick fixes, and Glory canned black eyed peas are the way to go to make it up quickly!

Onions and garlic sautéing

Onions and garlic sautéing

  • 2 cans Glory Black Eyed Peas
  • 1 videla or other sweet onion
  • 3-4 cloves fresh garlic (chopped)
  • 1-cup rice
  • 1 ¾ C liquid (drainings from the peas and I use chicken or veggie stock to finish it out)
  • A hambone, ham hock, or leftover ham meat (amount to taste)
  • 1 or 2 Bay leaves
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • Dash Hot sauce & 1 TBL each of Apple Cider Vinegar/Raw Sugar (Optional)

Glory, if you're doing southern veggies, I mean C'mon, ya gotta do GLORY

Glory, if you're doing southern veggies, I mean C'mon, ya gotta do GLORY

There are many variations to this dish and my friend and co-blogger Rosie will be giving you hers, but here’s how I do it. Sautee the onion and garlic in a little oil, then add some ham or a ham bone (most often here in the south, the leftover Christmas ham is perfect for this). Add in the peas, liquid and rice, and a bay leaf or two and allow to simmer on low until the rice is cooked. Salt and pepper to taste, but be careful with the salt if you use ham, as it is already salty I like to throw in a dash of hot sauce, apple cider vinegar and raw sugar to mine. Some add a chopped pepper, but I save that for black bean soup. Once it is cooked down some (add more liquid if needed) and the peas and rice are nice and tender, serve in a bowl with the optional garnish of more onion, raw and chopped, and hot sauce, if you like. Good eating, good luck, and a fabulous New Year!

Seriously, it's just that easy!

Seriously, it's just that easy!

 

 

 

Published in: on January 1, 2009 at 10:25 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Ployes

Ever heard of Ployes?

Didn’t think so.  What, pray tell, are they?  Ployes (rhymes with “boys”) are French Acadian buckwheat pancakes.  I came across them while home in Western Massachusetts for fall foliage in October.  We made the obligatory stop at Atkins Farms in Amherst, which is one of the best country markets around.  Atkins is known for its apple orchard and they even have their own buttermilk pancake mix which I often buy, but this time a newcomer caught my eye:

Ployes Mix from Bouchard Family Farm

Ployes Mix from Bouchard Family Farm

This caught my attention for a couple of reasons.  I love trying out new foods whenever I can.  If there’s something I haven’t seen before on a shelf alongside my favorites, you can almost guarantee that I will pick the thing I haven’t yet tried.  But in this case I was also curious because the bag said ployes is a French Acadian dish.  Not many people seem to know that Western Massachusetts has a strong French Canadian flavor.  Everybody thinks Massachusetts is Irish or Boston Brahmin but there are also a lot of people of French descent around (I should know!  I grew up with them) and they brought their food with them.  I’m not French Canadian (French Huguenot here) but I’m interested in all francophone cultures so this bag made it into my basket in two seconds flat.

I saved the ployes for a special occasion.  It came this past weekend when my friend Christy came to visit me here in New York.  The scene was set:  lazy Saturday morning, ambling slowly into the kitchen for some coffee with nowhere to be and nothing special on our agenda.  The prep was surprisingly low maintenance — didn’t even require eggs, just water — and the only thing that it took me a minute to get the hang of was when to flip the little cuties.  They exhibited about the same signs as regular pancakes, forming small air bubble holes and curling slightly upward from the pan when they were ready to be flipped.  Soon I was able to churn them out like a pro as seen here at the height of the ployes-making operations:

Action shot!  I had three ployes going at once

Action shot! I had three ployes going at once

Although now I’m finding out from the Bouchard web site that French Acadians often eat ployes rolled, my first instinct was to go simple and enjoy them with a pat of butter and some local Western Massachusetts maple syrup as seen here.  Worked for me!  One note:  I found that the darker grade of maple syrup, grade B, paired better with the buckwheat flavor than did the lighter grade A syrup I also had on hand.  Your mileage may vary.

butter and maple syrup

Little dab'll do ya: butter and maple syrup

As we were enjoying our ployes, Christy and I both noticed their light sweetness.  They didn’t bog us down like regular pancakes and we were actually able to go have a normal meal later in the day, which is not often the case for me after having, say, rich buttermilk pancakes for a late breakfast.  I’m not even sure I remember how many ployes I made.  There’s still plenty of mix left over for the next go-round, which will probably be during the holidays when my unsuspecting father comes to visit and gets the full treatment.

Bouchard and others sell mix online and there are recipes available as well if you want to try your hand at making ployes.  They’re a versatile, low-maintenance option for a lazy Saturday or Sunday morning when you want a treat.  Check them out!

- Rosie

Dinner: Braised Brisket

brisket, broccoli and red chard, cannellini beans

On a chilly, winter day, there’s nothing better than braising. The plan today was to cook a pork shoulder, something kind of like this, but when we went to Whole Foods, they had none. So, after some consultation with our friendly neighborhood butcher-type person, we decided on brisket.

The game plan was going to be basically the same as the recipe above, which really is the basic technique you need for braising: Brown the meat, cook your veg, deglaze, and stick the whole thing in the oven for a couple hours.

The result was cut-with-a-fork brisket, and a rich tomato sauce. We served it with some broccoli and red chard cooked in olive oil, and cannellini beans with rosemary.

A step by step follows, with photos!
(more…)

Published in: on December 14, 2008 at 8:51 pm  Leave a Comment  
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Pouncing on Turkey Drumsticks

That's a whole lotta turkey.  What to do?

That's a whole lotta turkey. What to do?

The economy’s affecting us all in various ways, as I’m learning every day from NPR’s fabulous Planet Money podcast. Cooks in particular have a mandate to maximize and economize.  Some are very accomplished at it.  I’m trying to do a better job of it.  Last week I got a value pack of beef bottom round steaks at Whole Foods and enjoyed several reprises of a steak, onion and rice dinner.  Served with an organic nut brown ale, it was kind of like the gift that kept on giving.

So what now?  Well, they didn’t exactly fall off the back of a truck but I came into possession of a lot of turkey drumsticks today.  Pounced on them at Whole Foods.  They were priced from 68 cents up to 2 dollars a pack.  I thought it would be fun to see how far I could stretch them and how delicious I could make them.  Then I thought you fine folks might have an idea or two to share!  We’re still right on the heels of Thanksgiving and many of you might have tackled the turkey leftovers issue already.  What should I do with these turkey drumsticks?

This recipe is looking pretty good too.  If you’ve got any recipes that rock, however, please share them in the comments section!

- Rosie

Published in: on December 12, 2008 at 8:00 am  Comments (6)  
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Maple bourbon sweet potato pie

Maple bourbon sweet potato pie.  Oh yes.

Maple bourbon sweet potato pie. Oh yes.

Thanksgiving was just over a week ago here in the States.  I went home to Massachusetts, where it all began, to visit my father for the holidays.  Our running joke is that every time Thanksgiving rolls around I get a call from him all enthusiastic about this brand new recipe for Thanksgiving which just happens not to involve turkey.  He wouldn’t come right out and say it but he doesn’t care for it so much.  Admittedly, turkey cooked poorly does taste like sawdust.  So the last few years have featured goose, duck, leg of lamb, and ham.  This year was roast chicken.  No complaints since they were all delish!

Even so, for me the highlight of this year’s Thanksgiving dinner was actually dessert:  the maple bourbon sweet potato pie we put together.  A former coworker made mention of it on Facebook and I asked her for the recipe.  Glad I did!  It was phenomenally tasty and easy to make (we hardly ever bake).  Dad and I made two pies and they vanished pretty quickly.  Highly recommend crushing hazelnuts to line the pie crust and then the top of the pie filling itself as seen here.  They provide a good textural contrast to the soft sweet potato.  The recipe is listed below courtesy of my friend Rachel Gordon for anyone who would like to try this out at home.  It will make a repeat appearance in our home this Christmas for sure.

-Rosie

Maple Bourbon Sweet Potato Pie
2 medium or 3 small sweet potatoes (about 1 1/2 pounds)
3/4 C heavy cream
6 tbsp maple syrup
5 tbsp brown sugar
4 tbsp melted butter (unsalted)
1/4 C bourbon (or a little more, if you’re me)
3 large eggs
1 large egg yolk
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp nutmeg
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground ginger
1/8 tsp ground clove
A few grinds of black pepper
pie crust
hazelnuts (optional), ground up into little bits
Bake potatoes til soft (~1 hour).  When they’re cool enough, peel and mash smoothly.  A food mill would give you the silkiest pie, but I just use a masher.  Mix the sweet ‘tater mush with everything else, pour into a pie crust and bake at 350 until the filling is just about set, a knife inserted one inch from the edge coming out clean and the center just a little bit wiggly. My favorite is to line the bottom of crust with the ground hazelnuts and then sprinkle more on top, but plain is fine too. Or if you make your own crust, you could mix the nuts into the crust, that’s the way the recipe was suggested to me, but most of the time I’m too lazy to make crust.
Published in: on December 7, 2008 at 3:23 pm  Comments (3)  
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